39 Feet of Separation…

Adventure Eve – The Anticipation 

After five years of saying “we need to do this again…soon!” we were finally on our way to do some more sailing.  We actually began the night of April 27th by meeting in Somerville—taking advantage of a Park, Sleep, Fly program.  These programs let you leave your car for a week at the hotel while you are traveling for no addition cost (beyond the room cost for the night). 

Bill and Sheila met us and we went out to dinner at a local Mexican restaurant and then shared a room for the night.  It wasn’t really a full night since we stayed up past 10 pm watching the Sox, then some basketball, and then we needed to be up to catch the 3 am shuttle to the airport for a 5:30 flight.

With an international flight it is recommended that you arrive 2 hours in advance, which we did…actually getting to check-in more than 2 hours ahead, only they don’t open Security until 90 minutes before the first flight.  So we had some time to wait before going to the Gate.

Unfortunately the Starbucks outside of Security was closed so we (and by we I mean Bill and me since Cheri and Sheila don’t drink coffee) had to settle for Dunkin Donuts.  As a side note: I started to lose my interest in Dunkin Donuts when they first did away with crullers—an atrocity by most accounts—and I came just short of a lifetime boycott when

they stopped making the original Dunkin Donut—the cake doughnut with the little handle…I mean really, how can you call yourself Dunkin Donuts when you don’t even make one…DD has since become a commodity of last resort.

Our flight to St. Lucia was a little tight in making our connection in Miami…the plane had not been refueled the night before in Boston and the pump was broken so they had to fuel by hand…it took some extra time so our layover went to nil.

Regardless, we soon found ourselves in sunny and warm St. Lucia, and after picking up our bags Bill went to work negotiating a taxi tour to get us to Marigot Bay.

We had a good size van, adequate air conditioning, and out taxi driver, Claudius kept us well informed during the 90 minute trip from the airport in the southern part of the island to our bay on the north-west part.

When we arrived at the Marina we were a little too early for boarding and they were performing some maintenance on the boat so we were forced to sit at the outdoor cafe to enjoy our lunch and pass the time.

 

Eventually our boat, the Nita, was ready for us to board, inspect and stow our equipment for the upcoming sail.  Nita is a Beneteau 403 that is just over 39 feet long—therefore a maximum of 39 feet of separation—13 feet in the beam and drawing 6 feet in depth.  It was very comfortable with one large berth forward (in the bow) with an ensuite head, and two berths aft (one in each quarter) with a general head as well.  Bill and Sheila had the forward berth while Cheri and I used the starboard quarter berth.  The remaining berth became our storage area.

 

Following our orientation class—a review of the sailing area and discussion of our tentative sail plan—we went to a local mini-market and did the initial provisioning of the boat.  We then settled in and watched the first of what was to be a week of spectacular sunsets.

  Day One – Check Out and Sail Out…

The next morning gave us the first opportunity to clear customs.  Since we were sailing from one country (St. Lucia) to another (St. Vincent and the Grenadines) we—meaning primarily the Master of the vessel—has to account for all of the people aboard and attest to the documentation of the vehicle and certain items carried aboard. 

Then we were on our way!  You can see the start of the smiles that never really left our faces over the next eight days…well except for a little bit of open water transit time on the second day of sailing.

The ride down to the Pitons (which is actually the only volcano you can sail into) was a good first start.  A nice wind blowing from the north-east (which is the prevailing direction for this time of year) gave us an opportunity to shake-out the boat and sail for four and a half hours before making our first evening stop. 
   
Everyone got some time on the helm and then the pitons came into sight.  We also then had our first experience with a Boat-boy.

 
Claude—seen in his boat below—came bouncing over the waves and met us about a mile off-shore.  He was offering to assist us in getting our mooring bouy as we came into the Marine reserve area (no anchoring allowed in this maritime park).  We told him we were not sure we would need assistance, but if we did it would be him. 

As it turned out it was beneficial to have his help and by deciding early, we were able to wave off a couple of other Boat-boys…much to their disgust.  Some of these individuals can be very helpful and not pushy…some are just a pain in the butt.

After picking up the mooring ball it was time for some swimming and snorkeling.  The water felt great, the surroundings gorgeous, and we once again managed to watch the sun make its way towards Mexico over the horizon.

 

Day Two - Open Water Transit to St. Vincent

When sailing you typically fall asleep early and are up soon after the sun is up…this trip was no exception.  Bill and I split the coffee making responsibility, and then it was often a morning swim, some breakfast and then a good day for sailing.

We left St. Lucia with the clouds blowing off the Gros Piton and began transiting between St. Lucia and St. Vincent…the sailing was rocky and fun.  Some crew members fell a little under the weather due to the six to eight foot swells coming in off the port quarter during the open water transit…with a slightly following sea the boat has a tendency to ‘corkscrew’ a little and that can cause some disorientation and discomfort.  Fortunately for all it wasn’t long before everyone was doing well and enjoying the sail.

 

Our sail took us to Admiralty Bay (Port Elizabeth) Bequia (beck wah) which is a part of the country St. Vincent and the Grenadines.  This is a nice, well protected bay with good anchorages along both sides of the ferry channel.

 

We put the boat on the hook, loaded up the dinghy and headed ashore.

The customs building in Bequia is in the middle of town and just like clearing out of St. Lucia we needed to clear into the Grenadines.

While the paperwork was being completed, Cheri and Sheila headed over to the local produce market.   On entering they were surrounded by merchants offering to sell mangoes, papaya, bananas, vegetables and limes.  They were a little intimidating, but no match for Cheri and Sheila,  They did pick up some fruit for later in the trip—after  having some the next day I will never think of mangoes the same…they were fantastic. 

After heading back out to the boat for a swim and a change of clothes we headed back into shore for dinner at the Frangipani restaurant and watching the sunset over the Bay.

 

It is actually one of the town roads leading up to homes along the cliff-side.

Bequia, and many of the Windward Islands are built into the side of the hills and the roads often seem to go straight up.  What looks like a smoke stack in the picture to the left.

Day Three –

The next morning we were up early again and headed off south to Tobago Cays.  This area is one of the premier snorkeling and picturesque spots in the Caribbean. 

 

 
The next morning we had a big breakfast before heading off to explore Petit Bateau—the larger island from which I took the photo above.

We worked our way in through the reef and anchored off Jamesby Island (the one on the right in the picture below).  After swimming over to the island and exploring the beach we went back to the boat to grill up some steaks and enjoy the evening.

Day Four – Drifting off to Venezuela

After exploring, we saw that several of the boats over near Baradel Island had left their moorings, so we moved over.  This gave us the opportunity to snorkel into the protected sea turtle area and swim with the turtles.  They feed off the weedy bottom (only about eight to ten feet down) and don't seem to mind us intruding into their territory.  It was a great time to watch them move along and to be able to swim along with them!

After an afternoon of snorkeling Bill and Sheila decided to take the dinghy back over to Petit Bateau for some photos with the sun behind them and longer light rays of the afternoon.  I was reading out on the deck and saw them getting back to the dinghy--about a mile away--to head back out to the boat.  When I looked up again from my reading they were not in sight but I did see a dinghy back over at Jamesby Island and figured it was them.  About 30 minutes later I looked up to see a different dinghy motoring towards us with our dinghy (plus Bill and Sheila) in tow.

It turns out that when they left Petit Bateau they decide to round the island and come back through the cut between the islands.  Only when they got part way around (and out of sight of us) the propeller stopped rotating.  The engine worked fine only it wouldn't turn the prop.  Fortunately, they drifted near another anchored sailboat and the owner came and brought them in tow back to us.  Without the other sailor, they would have been on their way drifting with the winds and the currents towards Venezuela. 

Day Five – Barbecue with the Boat-boy

The next leg of our adventure took us back north one island to Canouan (can oo ahn) where The Moorings has another base.  Our original intent had been to head there to top off our fresh water tanks, only now we had the added need of an outboard motor repair.

With the prevailing winds and seas we decided to make the best time and motor up to Canouan.  Bill enjoyed the bouncing ride on the forecastle holding onto the jib sheets for support.  He said it was the best ride he has had in a long time. Since we were at a marina we took advantage of the available showers to get more of the salt off.  We were using the fresh water shower on the fantail each day after our last swim (adding to the need to top off the water tanks), but it wasn't the same as taking a full shower on land.

We pulled up to the dock in Canouan and were quickly shooed off to an adjacent mooring--it seems they do not want boats coming up to the new dock.  A hose was brought out to us to top off and they took the outboard motor to make repairs.

Repairs to the outboard motor were not going to take too long, so after the showers we took a quick walk into the nearby town.  The local people were colorful and helpful in pointing us in the direction of the mini-mart (and then looking for a small fee...which they did not receive).  We were able to provision ourselves with a few more items and then stopped by the fruit and vegetable market to pick up some more fruit and salad items.   While there we couldn't help but notice the smokey aroma coming out of the back of the fruit stalls, and it became obvious what the small fee would have purchased for the locals…had we paid it.

Arriving back at the marina we only waited around a short period longer before loading up with some ice and more charcoal and headed on our way.  We set a southerly course for the island of Mayreau and Salt Whistle Bay.  Bill brought us up to the anchorage with a little bit of guidance from a Boat-boy (who we did tip) and we settled into an idyllic setting for sitting on the hook—at anchor for you landlubbers.

We took the newly repaired dinghy over to beach and did a little exploring.  Cheri and I crossed the little spit of land between the bay and the beach on the other side and headed down the deserted beach.  The guidebooks said that Mayreau is such a friendly place that it is not unusual to see pelicans floating on the water with a seagull perched on their head...and we did come upon such a pair.

 

Along the way we also came upon the "end of the road" and couldn't think of a better spot for it to be.    then it was time to head back up 'our' beach to find Bill and Sheila.     He had asked us to bring our own plates and utensils and he would bring the food.  The barbecue was okay with chicken, fish, rice and vegetables, but the bugs started biting almost as soon as we got there.  After quickly eating—to  get away from the bugs—Cheri and I headed down to the dock and waited for Bill and Sheila.  When they came down later it turned out that the Boat-boy changed his story as to the cost.  He had quoted us in East Caribbean dollars earlier in the day and now said it was actually US dollars (2.5 x more expensive).  Bill paid him some more, but not his full asking...negotiating is the normal way of business here. Then it was back to the boat and a little time for some card playing…where we taught Sheila the game of Hearts.

We wandered down to the end of the beach and took a photo sitting on the rocks, The Boat-boy that helped us into the anchorage had told us about a barbecue on the beach that evening.  So after watching the sun go down we loaded into the dinghy and headed to shore.

Day Six – Fat Man Taxi

The next day, after a beautiful sunrise…I think the only one we captured on this trip and it was only because Sheila was up early and saw the opportunity…we knew we had to start heading north again...which was a bit sad.  We decided to sail up to Bequia and try Friendship Bay on the other side of the point of land that makes up Admiralty Bay.  When we arrived it just didn't 'feel right'.  There were no other boats anchored in the area, the water wasn't clear—everyplace else it was crystal clear—and the bay seemed somewhat open to the swells.  So we made the choice to return to Admiralty Bay, clear out of The Grenadines through customs, and have dinner on the town.

After anchoring we headed for the Customs House and along the way met the Fat Man of Fat Man Taxi—he was skinny as a rail and the taxi is a pickup with bench seats and a canvas cover in the back.  He used his radio to make a reservation for us at Tantie Pearl’s—a restaurant that the lady in the Whalebone Launch (a service boat in the bay) passed on to Bill—for later that evening.

We cleared customs, went to the fresh fruit and vegetable market so we could all have the experience of being accosted by vendors, and stopped by some other shops for t-shirts to mark our stay.  We also found a good grocery store to do a little bit more provisioning and most importantly to get some batteries for Sheila’s camera.

Back to the boat to freshen up and then we motored back to the dinghy dock to meet the Fat Man for a taxi ride to Tantie Pearl’s (http://tanties.bequia.net/).  The ride up in the back of the pickup taxi was an experience in itself.  An earlier picture showed some of the roads on this island and it doesn’t do the steepness or the curves justice…along with there being not guard rails.  It would have been a huge aerobic workout to walk up these streets…which I for one am glad we didn’t.

It was good that we made a reservation or else they may not have stayed open…we were the only customers.  That meant we had rail side seats (although every seat has a beautiful view of the bay below the cliff the house sits upon) and Caldwell, one of the owners’ sons was our Maitre d’, waiter, and photographer. 

We had an outstanding meal and it was a great last night for us in The Grenadines.

Day Seven – That’s a Damn Fine Looking Island

From the chart to the right you can see that the transit from Admiralty Bay northward to St Lucia requires beating to windward—going somewhat into or ‘closer to’ the wind.  In addition we were passing on the leeward side of the St Vincent such that the mountains blocked the wind for almost a third of the way. Once we had a good wind, we decided to turn on the autopilot and get some underway group shots.  You can see the Pitons coming into view behind us. Coming into the bay it was dusk—darkness comes fast after sunset in the lower latitudes—and we had a Boat-boy lead us into a mooring.  Of course this one turned out to be one of the pains in the butt expecting more money than we offered…we just gave him a beer along with the money instead.

The wind and the lee meant we spent quite a bit of time looking at St Vincent while never going ashore there.  Fortunately, it meant time for naps on the deck, an opportunity to become surrounded by a school of dolphins, and when we finally did have some wind it was a nice ride up towards St Lucia. As we got closer to St Lucia I saw that we were pushing our way towards sunset, so I put on the engine and pushed us towards the mooring area.  I am told the sunset behind me was one of the best of the trip.

Day Eight – Hip-Hop in Rodney Bay

We had one last look at the Pitons before we started sailing further north.  Our plan was to sail up to Rodney Bay, see a little of the city and possibly head out for another dinner. We then all went ashore for a little sightseeing and to scope out the restaurants.  This woodcarver was working under a palm tree along side the road and he was very friendly.  Bill and Sheila ended up purchasing a bird feeder from him made from a coconut and adorned with hand carved birds.  He made Sheila promise to paint eyes on the birds when she got home.

As we got up the next morning we were able to see some local fisherman heading out to work.  They motored by us with the crew all standing and facing forward with their hands behind their backs…remaining motionless as the boat bounced around.  Soon they were casting nets and looking for fish. Once we arrived, I headed in to clear us through customs…the last time from the sailboat.  This port was the only one that required the crew to stay onboard while the Master cleared the boat.

Although we found some gelato we liked, we really didn’t see a restaurant that appealed to us.  So we found an IGA—a full store and not like the mini-markets we had been frequenting in the small towns—and picked up some steaks for the evening.

Getting back to the boat we realized that the noise from the beach—music from a beach club aimed out over the beach and carrying across the water—would not make for a pleasant or restful evening.  We pulled up the anchor and headed over towards a quieter side of the bay.

We had one more evening enjoying a great meal together on the boat while watching the sun go down.

Day Nine – Relinquishing Command

For the morning of our last day on the boat we decided to first head in to shore and enjoy a local bakery—The Bread Basket—known for their pastries…and we’d let someone else make the coffee.  We then weighed anchor and headed out off the coast to make sure we had good wind and began a nice beam-reach towards Marigot Bay. 

Following some nice sailing we furled the jib, lowered the main and motored into the channel up to Marigot Bay.  The Moorings staff were expecting us and sent a dinghy out to meet us.  One of the marina crew members came aboard, arranged the fenders and lines and then I handed over the helm to him.

As much as I have sailed and seen people maneuver boats around, I was amazed to watch him back the boat into a stern-to position between other sailboats; and to use the engine and the shore lines against each other to get within eight inches of his intended location.

The sailing part of our trip was over…

But the Adventure continued…

We off-loaded our gear, did a check-out with The Moorings staff and worked our way over to the Marigot Oasis—the cottages on the side of the hill across from the Marina. Having a pool near the cottage allowed us to start getting the salt water out of our veins.  Plus, the view from our room was a continual reminder of where we’d been, and it was fun to watch others go in and out of the bay. That night we went out to dinner at the Rainforest Hideaway which had been recommended to me.  It was an outstanding meal and capped off the day.

A porter brought a boat across to pick us and our gear up, and then he carried it to the tram (while we used the stairs).  The tram was helpful in getting us up and down during our stay and we were glad we didn’t have to carry our luggage up and down.

Day Ten – Zipping Along

Saturday morning we finished up much of the fruit and cereal left from our boat provisioning and then headed across the bay to pick up a bus to the rainforest.  We had heard that one of the top thing to do in St Lucia (other than sailing) is to go on the zip lines through the canopy of the rainforest…so we were off.

After a 45 minute bus ride we arrived at Treetop Adventure Park.  We suited up in safety harnesses and were soon making our way through the treetops.

We had a blast doing this…more fun than you can imagine.

And for a little moment of Zen try double clicking on the photo below (it will take you to a Picaso web site and either start by itself or you may need to click on the photo on that site to start).  I will try and get out a separate video product within the next few days.

St Lucia Sailing 2010 Double-click Photo to Start

We were back to the cottage for a nice swim late in the afternoon and then off to probably the most forgettable dinner of the whole trip…not even worth writing about (unless I put a review on the TripAdvisor site).

Day Eleven – The Day of Body Searches

Similar to our trip down morning came early with a 4:15 wake up and using the tram to get our bags down to the water ferry and across the bay.  We had to wake up the boat driver and then it took him over ten minutes to get the engine started…so we could make a 30 second crossing.  It was a short taxi ride to the airport and we were on our way.   Our travels had us take a short transit to San Juan and then change flights on to Boston.  Bill’s ticket was marked so he had separate checks of his bags and scans when we went through the St. Lucia security, again before boarding the plane, and then going through security in San Juan…even the drug dogs were sniffing his carry-on bag.

Other than that our flights were uneventful and we made it home safe.  Another great Adventure successfully accomplished.

Question of the Adventure

During our travels we came up with an ongoing discussion point.  For traveling light Bill and I had each decided that a sailing trip—where you are wearing a bathing suit every day—requires only four pair of underwear (there, back and a couple while on the boat…worst case you can always reverse a pair).  Our traveling partners (not traveling as light) felt that eight to ten were more appropriate.

What is the appropriate amount for this type of trip?  Leave your answers and any justification in the comments section.  You can always provide amplifying comments to someone else’s reply.